Mesmerizing Spiti

By Sriyansh Jain / Adventure Tourism /

Ever wondered how it feels like to knock at a strangers door at 11pm in the night? Trust me it is terrific. There I was up the hill, the piercing autumn winds  thudding in my ears while I was standing outside a fairly lit homestay called ‘The Lords Kotgarh’ in Narkanda. The owner of the house was there – an old man with a delicate soft voice. Although I didn’t have a prior booking, he was amicable enough to offer me a room even in the dead of night. The room was fairly lit, it had a jar of water at the bedside and a towel and some mosquito repellants – the bare essentials that one could use for an overnight stay. The morning sunlight crept into every corner of the room and stepping outside I could feel that chill in the air with a view of the mountains and a great apple orchard which wasn’t visible during the night. After a quick breakfast I decided to head to Hatu peak.

 

After an hour’s journey through those treacherous and narrow roads there I was at an altitude of 11000Ft and atop the hill was the Hatu Mata Temple – The temple is dedicated to Mandodari, the wife of King Ravana. With a view of the lush green alpine that sweeps across the landscape, Hatu Peak stands tall and strong – indeed a great treat to the eye ! After enjoying the surreal view, I made my way to Sangla that is a 6 hours journey from Narkanda including the pit stops that I made at the beautiful Satluj river, the Karcham dam and the Baspa river. I reached Sangla at 6 pm, Sangla valley is a 60 km long valley with pine trees and greenery covering the lower part of mountains and Baspa flowing beneath. After checking-in to the hotel and relaxing for a while, I headed towards the small local market of Sangla. The market had all kinds of shops ranging from woollen thermal stores to a tiny vintage-looking shop selling crockery. There were also two small cafés selling chowmein and momos which really made me go to one of those to satiate my appetite. After the sumptuous meal, I walked through the deserted road, though it was 08.30pm only, it looked like almost midnight, all the shops were closed and there were hardly some locals around. It seemed as if the winter has arrived quite early this time, the lashing sound of the leaves really made the cold winds dominant at the night, bracing the weather I made my way to my hotel to sleep.

 

The Hatu Mata Temple
The Baspa river

The morning in Sangla was way more wintry than Narkanda but that didn’t deter me to get ready for an exciting visit to the India’s last village – Chitkul. At an altitude of 11320ft. Chitkul is considered as India’s last village and indeed, at first glance it will give you a feeling of time travel, way back into the past. With Kinner Kailash in the backdrop, Chitkul boasts of unparalleled beauty on the banks of Baspa River. On one side of the river, one can witness the beauty of the snow-clad mountains while the other side has a terrain full of wooden houses and apple orchards. As Chitkul is the last inhabited village near the Indo-China border it also has the most famous ‘Hindustan ka aakhri Dhaba’ which happens to be a great stop for many for enjoying a delicious small meal. Sangla to Chitkul is just 25 Kms and given the terrain it takes a mere one and a half hours to reach.  

Our next stop was Kaza. For the one seeking complete tranquility on their vacation, Kaza is ought to be the perfect destination, perched at a fearsome height of 11980 ft. It is the biggest town of the valley. After a dreadful journey of 250 Kms (Around 8 hours) I decided to relax at the Zostel Kaza – Zostel Spiti in Kaza which provides adults-only accommodation with a restaurant, a shared lounge and a garden. Boasting a concierge service, this property also provides guests with a sun terrace.But no matter how nice this property may be, the warmth in the air in Kaza always makes one move out instead of staying indoors. It was time for me to head to Lagza Village, nestled at a height of 14300Ft.It is is one of the remotest villages of India in the remote corner of Himachal Pradesh.

At least a km away from the destination I can notice the towering Golden Buddha statue which is believed to be around 1000 Years old. All the houses in the village are built below the statue and have prayer flags tied around them to signify the strong Buddhist presence.It felt as if I was meant to be there at that time as it started to snow, the locals said that this was the first snow fall of the winter and it really felt splendid as those tiny parts fell at my hands and body – the feeling was really impeccable. As the sun was wailing down I decided to descend and spend some time with the locals at Kaza at the Zostel, with them around, a bonfire and a glass of coffee that summed up the day at Kaza pretty well.

The Giant Golden Buddha Statue

The mornings in Kaza were the most frigid, with the temperature being -5 to -8 degrees Celsius one can almost feel parts of the body getting numb for sometime, after a quick Breakfast it was time to visit the villages of Komic & Hikkim. Both these places are in the same circuit, Kaza to Hikkim journey is 15 Kms and Hikkim to Komic Village is just 3 Kms. Hikkim Village is located at an elevation of 4,400 meters (14,400 ft) and it is just a small village, only a handful of houses, and is best known for its post office.It is famed as the world’s highest post office.Other than the post office, the village also has a small monastery that is worth visiting. Until a few years ago, Hikkim also had the world’s highest polling station before it was moved to the nearby Tashigang Village. After spending some time at Hikkim, it was time to go for another 3 Kms and reach the village of Komic. Also known as Kaumik and Komik, this small village will probably be the highlight of my journey towards this part of Spiti valley. The name Komik literally means “Eye of the Snow Cock”. Located about 19 kilometers from Kaza and at an altitude of 14,830Ft., it is often called the highest motor able village in the world. Komic is one of those places where you go to do nothing, a place where one just sits down with a cup of warm tea and sip on it while enjoying the landscape.There is however a monastery which is called the Comic monastery which is worth visiting. With the parting clouds, the crisp air was soaring and it was time to descend back to Kaza after a wonderful day ! 

It was time to say goodbye to this beautiful lifetime experience journey and I couldn’t look back and ask for anything better. As my flight from Delhi airport was about to take off, the glimpses of the journey flashed back while I tried to sleep.